Friday, 1 February 2013

Joel Tudor: Unfiltered


The longboard icon speaks without inhibition 

about the state of surfing.


So do you think as a culture we’ve lost sight of what surfing really is?
We haven’t lost sight. I think we get a little jaded. I think those of us that are over-informed need to remember that we’re over-informed. But I think we’ve all gotten so obsessed with chasing the buck and attempting to make ourselves different from everyone else that we sort of lost sight of how cool the whole activity is. As a whole, not just one little thing. And we also need to maybe take a step back for a second and appreciate it for what it is. You know what I mean? It’s rad, all categories. Bodyboarding’s rad, bodyboarders are rad—that shit’s hard as can be. You don’t believe me? Take a bodyboard out to Pipeline sometime. Bodysurfing has become a little bit trendy, with some people trying to attach themselves to the bodysurf culture, but bodysurfing’s still rad, it’s cool as can be. Chicks surfing is f—king awesome. I can’t explain to you how much better that is. They’ve given light to the entire activity, it’s great. When you get old, people that are older than you are cool. Because all the things you’re going against—your body falling apart, arthritis, neck issues, back issues—if you really dedicate yourself and do it your whole life, even if you’re not good, you’re f—king cool. As I’m getting older, I’m realizing how cool all of it is. When you’re younger, you have attitude and an opinion on this and on that, but when you’re older you realize that doesn’t matter, you definitely get some perspective. I’m just sitting back and appreciating all of it.

No comments:

Post a comment